Mark Chapman's Weblog

Food, we are constantly being told, will be the death of us. We are inundated with new ways in which even the most humble of staples to our diet could lead us to an early grave. Ordinarily, when the tabloids work up a head of steam for something as much as they have done for the latest food scare (the carcinogenic properties of a bacon buttie) I tend to ignore it as I do their constant attempts to turn Princess Diana's death into something more controversial than a driving accident. However, a trip to my local Waitrose has led me to a certain amount of food fury.

Let's face it the British on average have a terrible diet. We are currently falling behind the rest of Europe with our cancer mortality rates and the NHS is taking the brunt of the blame. However, is it not possible that the other countries in Europe have lower mortality rates because they tend to eat food that is fresh and nutritious without any reconstituted vegetable matter or reformed chicken carcasses? Another recent study, as reported on the BBC website ( 'Burned foods' linked to cancers) has been added to the mountain of research that already exists arguing that poor diet is a major cause for nearly all forms of cancer. This study points to burned carbohydrate rich foods (potatoes for instance) and the acrylamides produced as a result. These acrylamides cause cancer in much the same way as heavy amounts of red meat are said to do. Fundamentally, the point should be made that it is not a certain type of meat or vegetable that is at fault, but rather our love of processed food.

In my daily life I am surrounded by people who eat mainly out of a packet. Tins are largely shunned as the packet provides a fresher look and, more importantly, easy access. Also, the takeaway in London is king, with many people regularly eating a takeaway ever day. Is it any wonder, then, that we are so unhealthy as a nation. Even if the food scares are exaggerated (as they no doubt are) there is no doubt that a healthy diet will help people suffering from serious illnesses to recover.

I admit that the German diet is even worse than our own got the levels of processed red meat. However, even the German diet allows a little more balance and a fresher ingredients. The continental diet is generally far better than our own with more variety, particularly when it comes to seafood.

The British simply don't want to touch the stuff. My nearest Tesco has gone as far as removing its fish monger altogether and has the most pathetic fridge presenting its customers with 'crab' sticks and cod in breadcrumbs. We are an island and yet seem to have no desire to eat fish! The Japanese who, despite high levels of smoking, salt in their diets and alcohol consumption still manage to live the longest mainly because they are passionate about seafood. People refuse to eat fish for several reasons, but I have summarised several of them below:

1. They do not know how to cook it
2. They do not like the look of fish as it looks too much like it was once alive (unlike a frozen chicken kiev that apparently looks tasty)
3. They don't like the blood (again this is not a problem when eating reformed meat)
4. They don't like the smell before it is cooked
5. It costs too much
6. It's a posh thing to eat
7. They don't think it's cool

All these reasons are based on ignorance. Fish is cheaper than chicken and fresh sardines are a hell of a lot tastier than a chicken vindaloo from your local takeaway. The British are profoundly ignorant about food, which finally brings me back to my trip to Waitrose.

As I waited at the deli counter for a lump of pate I was longing for I had to help a shop assistant with a most embarrassing dilemma. An old man wanted a salad without any seafood (a fine English fellow) and the shop assistant was trying his very best to advise him. Unfortunately the shop assistant was not sure about whether artichokes are a fish or not. He consulted his colleague and she too was at a loss as to what an artichoke is but was pretty sure that it sounded like a fish, particularly with the terrifying concept of the tub being full of hearts. Despairing and a little desperate to get back to work on time, I had to inform them that an artichoke is a vegetable. Now these shop assistants are not stupid but, like the majority of the British population, they are ignorant.

My father was introduced by my mother (an immigrant) to peppers and to tin-less mushrooms and it was not long ago that we thought that Blue Nun was the height of sophistication. However, as much as we have opened up to new tastes and flavours we have also closed up even more. More and more kids are completely ignorant of where food comes from, even the simplest of foods.

Equally, the environmental waste caused by throwing out crisp packets, takeaway wrappers and microwave meal packages is a travesty. We have been brought up to waste food rather than to treasure it, to digest it rather than eat it.

What we need is to force kids to eat better food, but also to teach them about what food is and how to create decent meals for themselves. I'm not saying this is a cure for cancer or even for obesity, but it will repair some of the neglect of past generations and, perhaps, however rich or poor we may be we will know what decent food is, where it comes from and how to make it.